OlyBikes: Touring

OlyBikes loves bike touring and wants to "spread the word" about this wonderful pastime (or is it a way of life?). This page has lots of tips about touring to help make your tour fun and enjoyable.

Of course we also sell quality racks and panniers and lots of other bike touring stuff.
OlyBikes' bike touring resources:

Choosing a touring bike
A list of gear for self-supported tours.
Packing Tips
"The ABC Quick Check" a useful routine to ensure your bike is in safe working order
Miscellanenous Tips that have been helpful on tour
A few bike touring links we like

Choosing a Touring Bike

Many types of bikes are suitable for touring, though the best ones will have some things in common:

Comfort: "Bike fit" is a complex subject, and beyond the scope of this article (there are several articles on bike fit on-line that you can search for). This article discusses tour comfort issues in generalities. Keep in mind that touring usually involves staying on your bike for several hours at a time. Thus, a more upright position may be more appropriate to reduce strain on your upper body. The best advice is to take several longer rides before your tour and work out fit issues. You might want to take an over-the-counter anti-inflammatory drug the first few mornings of your tour to help your body get acclimated to all-day cycling.

Handlebars: You don't have to get a road bike with "drop" handlebars, but they do have advantages over flat-bar bikes. Most notably, they offer several hand positions to help minimize fatigue over the miles. You can add "bar-ends" to flat bars for more hand positions (or get a "flat" bar that has integral bar-ends). Drop bars generally offer better aerodynamics than a flat bars. Even if you don't care about being speedy on tour, they can be helpful in a stiff headwind. Drop bars are often and unfairly blamed for rider discomfort, when the real culprit is overall poor bike fit. That is, drop bars can be great if they are properly positioned, so give them some consideration.

Saddles: Saddles with a lot of cushion may have "around-the-block comfort" but actually could be uncomfortable several miles down the road. Your sitbones should be supported by the saddle. If they sink into a bunch of smushy cushioning, they will not be supported well, and you will wind up bearing weight on soft tissue, which can be extremely uncomfortable. Gel saddles seem worse in this respect as they have a fluid-like property (i.e. the push-in-here-comes-out-there property can put pressure on soft tissue). For that reason, give firmer saddles a try, but remember that you may have to "build up some butt callous" (i.e. get your butt acclimated to longer rides) if you are not cycling frequently. With so much variation among cyclists (even of the same gender), and variations in bike geometry/rider positions (the more upright, the more weight is supported by your butt), test riding different saddles is the only way to find one that is comfortable. Shops that do not let you try out different saddles do not deserve your patronage. Be aware that lycra saddles (or torn vinyl or leather over foam saddles) will absorb water, getting your butt wet when you sit on them. Also, if you use a tensioned leather saddle (such as a Brooks Pro -- the author's favorite model), you must not ride it wet, or it will permanently damage the leather. A little care and a waterproof saddle cover is all that is needed to help maintain the longevity of a tensioned leather saddle.

Function: A touring bike has a certain job to do -- carry you and your stuff long distances in all sorts of conditions. Below are some main considerations to ensure that your bike is capable of meeting your tour needs.

Clearance for wider tires and fenders: A loaded touring bike should be able to accomodate at least 700cx28 tire. Usually, cantilever or linear-pull brakes offer much better fender and tire clearance than sidepull brakes, though some sidepull-equipped bikes can be perfectly adequate when thoughtfully designed.

Fenders keep you cleaner and drier and also keep your drivetrain cleaner (tires fling water and debris at the chairing/crank area). They are well worth the extra weight. Make sure to get "full fender" that offer maximum coverage.

Wider tires can be helpful when carrying loaded panniers, especially on rough pavement or off-pavement. They provide increased traction, and reduce risk of pinch-flats (when hitting a bump collapses the tire sufficiently to allow the rim walls to cut puncture the innertube). They may be slower, however, depending on the tire (but is speed the main point on tour?).

Strong Wheels:
Tours load wheels more heavily than most other uses. For 700c wheels, 36-spoke wheels are recommended. Smaller wheels are inherently stronger, and do not necessarily need to have more than 32 spokes (but may be more durable if they do). Of course, a wheel is only as good as the quality of the builder. Humble components built well are better than expensive stuff slapped together by a robot without hand-finishing by a human. That said, here are some generalizations about wheels that usually "hold true" (sorry ;-)

Double-wall rims have an extra internal wall to help brace the structure and make it stronger. You cannot see this feature with the tire, tube and rim strip mounted on the wheel, so make sure to ask if a bike you are considering has double-wall rims.

Freehub/Cassette Hubs better support the axle than older freewheel hubs. For information on why, see Sheldon Brown's article on hubs.

Rack and Fender Mounts: If your bike doesn't have eyelets on the frame and fork, it probably is a sign that your bike may not be well suited to touring (sharing a single eyelet between a rack and fender is fine). Still, workarounds may exist, such as using a trailer instead of racks and panniers, and using partial fenders instead of full fenders. A resourceful bike shop should be able to find a solution for you.

Wide Gearing Range. With a load (either in panniers or in a trailer), you'll benefit from having a wide gear range to make climbs easier. Often, production bikes (even so-called "touring bikes") do not have as wide a gear range as practical or possible with today's components. Gearing that is "too low" (if there is such a thing!) is preferable than gearing that is too high. Touring is usually a vacation, and having to coast down a hill is a small price to pay for being able to pedal up it!

If you already have a bike you want to tour on and need to assess the gearing of, try riding some hills with your bike fully-loaded; if you can spin as you pedal up the hill, (at least 70 rpm), your bike is probably well geared.

If you are buying a new bike for touring, first find a make, model and size that is comforble. The gearing, while important, should be one of the last things you assess because it can be changed fairly easily. Ask if you can test-ride it with a loaded cargo trailer (trailers are easy for the bike shop to attach and remove, whereas a cargo racks are not). Bring your own load, such as a backpack full of the gear we suggest to put in the trailer. If you intend to use racks and panners, remember that this test ride is just for judging the bike's gearing, and not the handling of the trailer. Be up-front with the shop that you are assessing the gearing. They should be understanding and appreciate that you are trying to make it easy for them by using a "quick release" trailer. Please be aware that shops don't make much on bikes and may not be able to change your whole drivetrail for free. They are providing a valuable, skilled service, so expect to pay for that.

Ask your bike shop about what gearing options there are for a bike you are considering. There are limitations to what can be done with standard bike parts, but it's YOU who has to pedal up the hills with all of your stuff, so make sure you'll be satisfied with the bike's gearing.

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Gear List

Bike & On-Bike Gear

Tuned-up, comfortable, multi-speed bicycle. See the following sections for tips:

"ABC Quick Check".

Choosing a Touring Bike

Cargo rack(s) & Panniers. For larger payloads, use front panniers as well as rear. They help distribute the load among both wheels, improving wheel life and bike handling. See tips on packing for more information. You can, of course use a cargo trailer instead of racks and panniers. Most of this gear list is still relevant for cargo trailer tours.

Water carrying system. Whether you use bottles and cages (two, or better yet, three bottles per bike) or a hydration pack, you should drink enough so that you occasionally have to stop and relieve yourself regularly. That is the only way to ensure that you are properly hydrated. If you become dehydrated, your muscles can cramp up, your morale and attitude will suffer. Remember, a tour is supposed to be all about enjoyment, not punishment!

Handlebar bag with map case. A handy place for your wallet, camera, sunscreen, sunglasses, and snacks. Bonus if it has a quick-release attachment so you can take your valuables into stores with you. Map cases are nice, though not all of them are equally waterproof.

Saddle Pack to hold basic tools. See Toolkit, below.

Rain covers for all bike-mounted bags. You can also use thick, durable plastic bags inside your panniers if cost is an issue. The best thing to do is use waterproof panniers, like Ortlieb's excellent offerings.

Saddle or whole bicycle rain cover. A plastic sheet or poncho is OK for the whole bike. At least bring a thick plastic bag for covering saddle (a wet saddle first thing in the morning is a bummer).

"Full fenders" They keep you dryer and cleaner, and also keep crud off your drivetrain, prolonging the life of your components. Partial fenders make as much sense as half and umbrella, so get the fenders with the best coverage possible.

Headlight and rear reflector/rear flashing light. Just in case you don't make it to camp by nightfall. Leave your super-bright and heavy commuting headlight at home. A simple removeable headlight can double as your camp flashlight.

Rear-view mirror. Handy in providing advanced warning of overtaking cars.

Bell or horn. Handy to warn pedestrians of your presence, and to say hi to folks you encounter.

Security cable and lock: Bring a light-weight one, just enough to "keep people honest". Remember that your bags may still be a target for theft depending where you are. Make sure that valuables always stay with you (in that removable handlebar bag).

Frame pump. Make sure it is a quality pump with the head set up for your valve type. Avoid plastic pumps.

Toolkit (bike multitools are fine, just make sure you have all the following bases covered)

tire levers (3)

patch kit (check your glue to make sure it isn't dried out!)

Shop rag and a pair or two of nitrile gloves: Keeps your hands clean when fixing your bike.

Small Phillips and flat screwdrivers (1 each)

Hex head wrenches - 3,4,5,6 mm (8mm only if needed)

Open ended or combo wrenches - 8 and 10 mm.

Short crescent wrench.

Cone wrench (one per size needed). Most bikes have 13mm front cones and 15mm rear cones. Park makes a small 13mm/15mm cone wrench.

Cogset remover: Have a cassette hub? Then get Stein Tool's MiniDriver (an upgrade over the venerable Pamir Hypercracker), a small, brilliant tool that removes cassette lockrings, a job normally done by several heavy and bulky tools. It's a great space and weight saver. Contact OlyBikes for more information about this tools at info@olybikes.com. Have a freewheel hub? Get the appropriate freewheel remover and "pocket vise" which allows a screwdriver or other such tool to act as a wrench.

Chain tool/chain breaker - with link loosener too

Spoke wrench (sized for your spokes)

A multi-purpose tool with pliers and cable cutter (e.g. leatherman)

Spare Parts

Extra fasteners: nuts and bolts the sizes you are using on your bike (usually metric, which might not be available everywhere)

Spare tire (1 per diameter -- even for trailers, if used): Foldable tires with kevlar beads (different from kevlar belts) pack pretty small and can really save your bacon (Schwalbe makes foldable tires in a variety of sizes). To make a non-foldable tire pack smaller, lay it on the floor, grab the casing "at twelve o'clock" and fold it down so it extends past the casing at six o'clock. You now have three smaller circles. Fold one on top of the other and compress with a couple zip-ties. This may not work with small tires.

Brake pads (pair)

Brake cable

Shift cable

Chain links (3 full links with any special pins or master links required)

Tube in zip-lock bag with talc: talc helps the tube slip into position and not get pinched.

Presta to schrader valve adapter (even if you have schraeder valves -- you could help someone else, and if you needed an extra tube and only presta tubes were available, you could use your pump.

Kevlar cord replacement spoke (2) or 3 spare spokes (1 per size, labelled): Fiberfix is the only kevlar replacement spoke we are aware of. It is a great product. Contact OlyBikes for more information at info@olybikes.com for information.

Spare "friction shifter". Some drop-bar bikes can use a simple friction shifter that mounts directly to the downtube. Otherwise, consider bringing a friction bar-end shifter. For flat-bar bikes, carry a flat-bar-mounting friction shifter. Why friction? It's more versatile and can work with various drivetrains.

Miscellaneous Bike Gear

Zip-ties (5): good strong ones, not the tiny ones often used for securing cyclometer wires.

Duct or athletic/medical tape (10 feet)

Tire repair material: should be tough yet flexible. Prepare a few ovals of it for your spares kit. Secure with duct tape to "repair" a gash in a tire.

Chain oil. Those portable breath drops/Beano containers are perfect for holding a small amount of oil (they are flexible and have a small tip, and the cap seals pretty well). Keep in a zip-lock bag in case it leaks.

Grease. screw-top lip balm holders are good for holding a small amount of grease. Keep in a zip-lock bag in case it leaks.

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Personal Gear

Clothing

Helmet.

Gloves appropriate for temperatures encountered.

Bike shorts (2-3). Don't wear underwear under bike shorts - they go on your naked butt (in case you didn't know).

Stiff-soled cycling shoes

Wicking liner socks (3). Feet swell during riding and snug shoes and/or thick socks can become uncomfortable.

Sunglasses (protection from debris as much as glare)

Lightweight wicking tops (2) -- wool is less stinky than synthetic.

Lightweight wicking bottom (1) -- again wool, if you can.

Insulating top (e.g. light fleece jacket)

Raingear (jacket is most important -- bottom and shoe covers/ booties are secondary)

Waterproof overmitts

Walking shoes (if your bike shoes are too stiff for camp/town)

Casual shorts (1) -- perhaps a bathing suit

Casual long pants (1)

Hat (1) -- for warmth on chilly mornings/evening and to hide helmet/bed head.

Underwear (optional - only for stays in town)

Sleep-Related Gear (stored in drybag(s))

Sleeping bag

Sleeping pad

Tent with rain fly and plastic groundcloth (trimmed just smaller than the tent perimeter to avoid rain runoff from flowing between groundcloth and tent). Camping hammocks are also an option if you have trees.

Food-Related

Freezer weight zip-lock bags

Food tubes for gooey food like honey and nut butter (available at outdoors stores)

Stainless steel spoon (works for all kinds of stuff and doesn't poke holes in things like forks can)

Bowl. The 16 Oz. Nalgene with screwtop lid is perfect, and is a a great exception to the no-rigid-containers rule (store stuff in it to save space in your panniers).

Hot liquids cup with lid (or that cool Nalgene!)

Scrubber sponge (Scotchbrite works great)

Cookset (optional make sure it's worth the weight/bulk):

Stove & fuel

Pot with lid

Pot lifter or pliers

Toiletries

Toilet paper in ziplock bag in handlebar bag

Toothbrush

Tooth powder or toothpaste

Biodegradable soap

Small towel (you can dry off with a very small towel, plus it is lighter, packs smaller and dries faster)

Contact lens supplies

Feminine hygiene stuff

Dental floss (good for sewing too)

Vaseline (for chafing problems)

Baby wipe/wet nap (allows micro-shower when far from facilities)

Miscellaneous Personal Stuff

Camera

Wallet with ID, cash, credit card, travellers checks, health insurance card, important contact info

Passport (if needed) in zip-lock bag

Pocket knife

Map: keep accessible and protected from rain

Flashlight with batteries (and maybe an extra bulb). Small bike headlight can double as a flashlight.

Whistle: handy in a group if you get separated too far to yell

Lighter and waterproof matches

Journal and pen

Sunblock

Lip balm with sunblock

Insect repellant (optional — we just cover up well in camp)

Croakees/Chums or other strap to retain glasses

30 feet of cord: for hanging food so critters can't get to it.

Sewing kit

Water filter

Water purification tablets (in case filter breaks -- worth avoiding giadia)

First aid kit

Compass

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Packing Tips

Packing smart will help make your tour more enjoyable by improving bike handling, preserving your cargo as well as your gear. Volume and weight are the two variables to control. If possible, plan on stops to re-supply on food -- you will appreciate carrying less up the climbs! Opt for dehydrated foods when possble, as they are much lighter. Your panniers can only contain so much, so try to carry volumes that make sense -- take travel-sized portions of toiletries, for instance. Flexible containers such as zip-lock bags and hydration bladders are better than rigid containers in that as you use their contents, their volume gets smaller. In comparison, a quart size rigid plastic container with a handful of granola occupies a lot of unnecessary space in a pannier.

Traditionally, smaller panniers are used in front, but we don't really see why. The front rack and wheel are plenty capable of bearing a load, so don't be shy. Try to put heavy items in front panniers which are mounted lower than rear panniers.Rear panniers are loaded with bulky-but-light items like sleeping bag and clothing. Also, put heavier items at the bottoms of panniers and keep them towards the bike-side of the pannier. Try to make sure that load volumes are minimized and held securely with compression straps. Use of compression straps also make your panniers last longer both by minimizing abrasion from shaking contents, and by taking the load off of zippers; zippers are "closure mechanisms" and should not be relied on to compress over-stuffed bags. Replacing a pannier zipper is often cost-prohibitive. Of course, panniers that avoid the use of zippers like Ortliebs never have this problem. Click here for information about Ortlieb panniers.
Lastly, try to develop a system for what goes where. That way, you'll open/grab the right bag when searching for an item.
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ABC Quick Check

The ABC Quick Check is a simple method to help you make sure your bike is in proper working order. It's handy name will help you remember it (see below). The ABC Quick Check is suitable for any ride, no matter how short. The author once snapped a brake cable in an ABC Quick Check before very hilly group a ride. The problem was remedied in minutes, and undoubtedly saved him a crash. Do your ABC Quick Checks!

Air tires and inspect tire sidewall and tread. Also make sure that the wheels are true (rims should pass straight through brake pads without excess left-right movement).

Brakes should be examined to ensure that there is no cable fray or cracked housing. Brake pads should be properly positioned so that they will neither contact the tires, nor dive into the spokes as they wear. Remember that loaded tour bikes need extra stopping distance!

Control surfaces should be checked to ensure firm connections. The control surfaces are: the pedals/cranks, saddle/seatpost, and brake lever/grip/handlebar/stem.

Quick releases (on brakes, wheels and seatpost/seat collar) should be checked for proper adjustment. See our Quick Release PDF file.

Check all accessories such as racks and fenders to make sure they are firmly attached. Tighten fasteners (use a weak thread locker such as blue Loctite to prevent fasteners from loosening).

Other Pre-tour Mechanical Stuff: Shifting!
Make sure that your shifting system is functioning properly. Like the brake system cables and housing should be in good shape, and you should be able to shift into all gears without "throwing the chain." When your bike is loaded, the frame may flex enough to affect its shifting adjustment. This can be a drag when you get to an uphill and cannot shift to your low gears. Test ride your shifting adjustment with a loaded bike and a steep hill.

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Miscellaneous Tips

Put tomorrow's clothes in your fleece jacket and use as a pillow. In the morning, heat up the clothes in your sleeping bag so they're toasty before putting them on!

Consider touring without a stove and cookset. It may sound odd, but you can save a lot of weight and volume by omitting them. Consider whether the tradeoff is worth not having a hot beverage or meal when you want one. This works best when services are nearby. You can break camp and bike to a diner for hot grub. In remote areas, a stove might make more sense.

If you haven't done much training to prepare for your tour, consider taking an anti-inflamatory like Ibuprofen in a prevenatative manner the first couple days of your tour. It can help stop your body from over-reacting to the physical stress of the tour, which can result in sore joints, etc.

Vary your body position during your ride to reduce fatigue. Also, take rest stops to stretch, snack and hydrate.

While sunblock feels yucky to put on, having a sunburn on tour when you need to be active a whole day and also sleep in less-than-optimal accommodations can be a real morale killer.

At night, secure your food and toiletries in a "bear bag" or other secure container, strung up in a tree so that critters cannot get to it. Never store such things in or right near your tent as they can encourage anything from an annoying "chew through" by rodents to a dangerous encounter with a racoon or bear.

Keeping your bike shorts and crotch clean is of paramount importance. You will be on the saddle for many hours a day on a tour, which can stress tissue and cause saddle sores. Clean your "undercarriage" well (remember those baby wipes/wet naps when far from facilities). Wash your shorts at the end of each day, scrubbing the crotch pad, called a chamois (pronounced "shamee") with soap and thoroughly rinsing it. It is best to let shorts dry, but wet and clean is better than dry and dirty!

To remove the most water from a garment and speed drying time, roll them up in your towel and then wring it out.

When ascending a climb, be aware that the chances of finding a water source to filter from will likely decrease. It is better to bring extra water up the climb than to run out. A great, space-saving way to do this is by using a hydration bladder which only occupies space when needed.

Learn to read maps better. Even if your map doesn't have topographic information, notice if your route is parallel to a stream or perpendicular to it. Parallel routes are flatter (and downhill in the direction of stream flow), and perpendicular routed are uphill heading away from streams and downhill heading towards them.

Got a tough mechanical problem? Be patient! Bike repair is 10% rote memorization, 90% powers of observation, so take a few minutes and look at what is happening and strategize how to address it. A crafty fix is sometimes needed and thinking outside the box may be the only way to make it happen -- plus it will make for a great story later.

Try to remain flexible about exactly where you go and when. Sometimes a camping area is full, a road get washed out, or a tour partner might need a break to recover from a problem with their body or bike. A good tour experience is a delicate balance of goals, adaptation and acting with generosity and grace towards oneself and others.

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Bike Touring Links

Here are a few useful bike touring links (search for others):

http://www.bikelist.org has several bike lists you can join, including one on bike touring. There are many helpful and friendly people on the list, though the signal-to-noise ration is a bit low. Consider the digest option to keep your inbox tidy.

http://phred.org/~alex/bikes/ has some good articles on touring and links to other sites.

The Warm Showers List is a neat resource. Touring cyclists join it, provide their contact information. and try to put other tourists up for the night. Accommodations vary. Some contacts are available without having to sign up. Others are not.
http://www.bicycletouring101.com is a site dedicated to touring and welcomes contributions from bike tourists.

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