Get That Old Bike Fixed!

 

Admit it. Go on. You know you have one. That bike that’s just sitting in the garage, basement or dog run. You don’t ride it because it’s kicked, or old and outdated. You have a fancy newer bike that that aged heap just can’t compare to. The thing is, that old bike probably has a secret identity you never knew about, and it’s something that new-fangled bike can’t do at all. It’s time to liberate it from it’s tomb of dust, cobwebs or grass and get that old bike fixed — and by “fixed,” we mean turn it into a “fixed gear”.

On a fixed gear, you can’t coast — if the bike is in motion, so are the cranks and pedals. It might seem mysterious why anyone would want such a bike, but the ride of a fixed gear (aka “fixie”) is something so sublime it’s hard to describe. You feel more connected with a fixie than a bike with gears and/or the ability to coast. A fixed gear bike is tons of fun, requires less maintenance and is lighter compared to other bikes because it has no derailers or shifters, less chain and fewer sprockets. Riding a fixed gear is to other cycling what cycling in general is to walking — a whole new world of enjoyment.

If fixed gear bikes are so great, why not convert your newer bike (assuming you have one)? Well, that bike is probably specialized to do something well already (e.g. go fast or have a wide gear range). It’s nice to preserve that investment and increase the diversity among your bike fleet. Remember, an extra bike (or two or three!) is a beautiful thing, especially when you are in a rush and your main ride has a flat, or you need a “guest bike” for a friend who’s visiting town.

Arguably, the ideal candidate for fixed gear conversion is a mid-eighties road bike. There are a few reasons why such a bike is a good candidate for “fixing” (besides the fact that you haven’t been using it). The main one is the shape of the dropouts — the part of the frame that contacts the rear wheel’s axle. On older bikes, it was common for the dropout slots to face forward (“horizontal dropouts”), but today, almost all multispeed bikes have slots that face straight down (“vertical dropouts”). Horizontal dropouts are important for tensioning the chain, a task normally done by the rear derailer, which fixies don’t have. Without the ability to tension the chain, it would fall off, which is unsafe.

Horizontal Dropout	Vertical Dropout

Conversion of the bike starts with replacing its rear wheel (see sidebar) which is most likely designed to accept a freewheel — that clicking, ratchet-like mechanism with all the gears on it. While a fixed gear cog can thread onto that wheel, it will unthread when you resist the pedal/crank motion, which is very dangerous. A fixed gear wheel’s hub also has a smaller, reverse-threaded portion that accepts a lockring. When tightened against the cog, it prevents it from rotating backwards (because that further tightens the lockring against it).

"Double Fixed" Track Hub(accepts fixed cogs on both sides)

Cash for Fixed You can have a swanky high-end fixed wheel built for you, or you can look for something more budget-oriented. We have sourced an excellent intro-fixed gear wheel. A double-walled rim with stainless spokes, sealed cartridge bearings, cromoly axle (long enough for mounting nuts, but hollow in case you want it cut down for use with a quick release). The wheel comes with a cog and lockring. But wait, there’s more! This is a “flip-flop” wheel, meaning that its hub is threaded on both sides. It not only accepts a one-speed freewheel on the far side (so you can coast if you want), but it comes with one! You get all that for just $120. There’s a lot more to the conversion than just slapping the wheel in the frame (hand-finish of the wheel’s “true” and bearing adjustment, frame spread and dropout alignment, chainline adjustment, chain shortening, etc). If you want everything set up right, installation is about $40.

Most new fixed gear wheels are a size called 700c. Some older bikes use 700c wheels, but many use the larger and incompatible 27” size. If that’s what your bike had, you’re not out of luck, though you’ll need a new tire and rimstrip (the tube is reusable). No biggie, though, that old tire was probably shot anyway. On some bikes designed for 27” wheels, the brake pads can be adjusted to hit a 700c rim properly. If your’s cannot, a different rear brake with a longer reach can be sought, or you could forgo a rear brake entirely. That’s OK, because the front brake is far more effective than the rear brake (you just need to learn how to use it safely). Also, you’ll still have the ability to provide rear braking by resisting the movement of the cranks/pedals.

Another thing to consider on your fixie is the pedals. It’s highly recommended to have either toeclips (those with straps are even better, but even “mini-clips” are good), or “clipless” pedals that special bike shoes with cleats “click into”. With either arrangement, your feet will stay on the pedals, affording much better control. Also, since you’ll only have one gear, the ability to apply force on the pedal upstroke is handy. Toeclips are cheaper, and many older bikes already have them. Replace the straps if they are frayed — you don’t want them the snap at a crucial time. Leather straps are stronger than nylon, but if you’re vegan....

Back to School
Ride a fixie is a learning process. You’ll probably pedal up to speed and then instinctively try to coast. Or, alternately, you’ll need to decelerate for some reason, and try to coast. Either way, you’ll get an exciting/surprising “bucking” sensation as your steed reminds you that kind of maneuver isn’t tolerated. You might try this several times until the negative feedback provides enough fodder for fixie-form body memory to kick in — no coasting, ever!

There’s another aspect to good fixie-form and pedaling — avoiding the dreaded “pedal-strike”. At low speed, bikes steer by turing the handlebars. However, at higher speeds the bike is leaned into turns, and there’s the rub — literally! If the pedal on the inside of the lean contacts the ground, the rear of the bike will lift up and pivot to the side, doing a momentary pole-vault imitation. In short, you’re likely to lose control and crash if you experience pedal strike. You can avoid pedal strike by chosing pedals with better cornering clearance and/or running shorter cranks. Also, you’ll need to develop a sense for how far you can safely lean while pedalling. Limiting your speed before turns will reduce the amount of lean needed. You will eventually develop a more-upright fixie turning style that requires more input through the handlebars. In short, it’s a learning process, just like when you first learned to ride a bike. And, like that experience, a whole new and wonderful world awaits you, so get that old bike fixed!

Q: If fix gear bikes are so great, how come they aren’t sold new in bike shops? A: They ARE! We sell Redline’s 925, a complete fixie with several cool accessories for just $550. This is a good alternative for those without a good conversion-candidate bike. It includes fenders, fixed cog and freewheel, mini-clips and forgiving 700cx30 tires.